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Fabric
Painting for Embroidery Project
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This project will be done in several parts. I will
start with the simplest fabric painting to use for embroidery and
the future parts will be more complex as you get accustomed to the
method. If you haven't done so already, download the Supply List
below and assemble all the tools and materials.
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This Fabric Painting Project
is only for utilizing acrylic paints and will not address the more
advanced methods of Fabric Painting. The main objective of this project
is to produce fabric that you can then use for quilting/and or machine
embroidery. We are going to be producing backgrounds - not detailed
paintings. These go together quickly and are very durable. They do
not hurt the sewing machine when used for embroidery. I have machine
washed many of mine many times and they hold up extremely well as
long as you follow all the steps.
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Project One
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Our first project will be to produce a two-tone fabric to be used
for the background of an embroidery.
Step 1: Choose colors: I usually create my fabric and then find
an embroidery to fit, but if you have a special design you would
like to plan for, use this for the colors.
I get a lot of questions about color. The right colors can make
all the difference in any of the projects we do, but color is also
very subjective. Here are some things to think about when choosing
your colors:
What colors are used in the projects I'm attracted to? For example
- are they predominantly blue, red, yellow, etc. Are they bright
or subdued? Are they dark or light? Do the projects have a lot of
contrasting colors or are they more monotone?
If you are making a project for another person, what colors do
they wear, have in their home, use for their projects, etc. You
might adore violet and want to make a violet wall hanging for your
best friend, but she thinks it's *old fashioned* and would much
rather have red and black.
Where am I going to use the project? You want to make sure your
project blends well with the existing decor. Blending doesn't necessarily
mean matching!!! A sunny wallhanging of mostly golds and yellow
might look great in a mostly soft blue room. Find different bits
of colored things - paper, fabric, and tack them up where you are
going to put your project and STAND BACK and look. The gorgeous
pale lavender picture you are planning might look great up close
but could get lost in a large room of soft colors.
What size is my project going to be? Size can be very important
in choosing colors. Your room might be able to handle a huge wall
hanging done in soft blues, but that same wall hanging done in vibrant
colors could send you running from the room. I'm not saying that
small can be bright, and large has to be soft! I am just saying
that it's good to get an idea of the effect of your color choices
when translated to the size you plan and where you will put the
finished product.
Experiment! A box of 100 Crayola crayons is a great investment.
Grab some paper and your box of crayons and scribble different colors
together. You don't have to be an artist - you don't even have to
draw anything, just draw shapes or blotches of different colors
next to each other to see how they look
For this Project, start with two paints of similar color (Red and
pink, dark green and lime green, etc.) and white
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Step Two:
Choose your fabric
I have used fabric that is very sheer to fabric that is quite heavy.
Heavy fabric allows you to slather on lots of paint and get a very
solid, even three dimensional look. Sheer fabric, like muslin, allows
the paint to soak through and gives you a much softer look, but
it is also more difficult to work with. You can put some paint on
it, turn around, and then look back to see your nice shape all spread
out. For this project I would choose two or three pieces of fabric
of different weight so you can see the effects on both.
Wash your fabric before painting!!!
Many fabrics contain sizing that will prevent the paint from setting
well. Also, because the finished project can be washed, if the fabric
hasn't been preshrunk, it's first wash can have a very detrimental
effect on your painting.
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Step 3:
Prepare your fabric and paints
Cover your work area with something that will prevent the paint
from soaking through to the surface underneath. Plastic tablecloths
are good or a piece of vinyl. Make sure your surface is big enough
to hold you piece of fabric, your paints, two or three cups of water
and your paint *palette* (my favorite palette is a clear plastic
plate) I used the same brush for all the examples below - a wide
flat one about 1/2" wide.

Those of you who are very neat might have a hard time with this
next step: Prepare you Palette
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I first squeeze a blob of each of my colors around the edge of
my plate.
I've chosen orange, yellow and of course the white
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| I then squeeze a fairly large
amount of medium all over the plate. The amount of medium you use
will determine how soft your finished fabric will be. |
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I then mix each of the colors with some of the medium and also
add a little water by dipping my brush in the water and then mixing.
The only time I have washed my brush out in the following steps
is in between paintings. Otherwise just use the water to thin the
paint a little.
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Example One
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The first method is the *half circle* Load your brush with some
of the color - don't try to get just one color, the beauty of this
kind of painting comes from having a mix of colors on your brush.
Then put your brush to the fabric using a circular motion. Move
the brush quickly - you don't want the paint to be *ground* into
the fabric - more laid on top. It will soak in by itself.
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| Continue a section
of half circles choosing more of one color than the other for some
of the *swirls*. If the paint starts looking thick, mix it with the
medium and add a little water on your palette. Just add a little water
at a time - you don't need much |
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| The next method
I'll call the *stroke* Load your brush with a good amount of paint
and make long streaks across the fabric. Resist the urge to go over
a stoke if you not quite sure you like it! If you brush over the same
spot more than once or twice, it will start getting washed out. Instead
just get more paint and put another stroke overlapping it. |
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| The third method is the *dab*.
You fill the brush with paint and then holding the brush vertical
to the fabric, push down on the fabric in a quick motion and lift
immediately - just as if you were dabbing something to get out a stain.
This method looks great with bits of two or more colors of paint on
your brush not mixed - dab your brush at an angle in one color, reverse
the angle and dab the other side, then start dabbing your fabric |
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| As you can see,
by now my palette has all of the colors blending into one another |
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| More dabs coming down from
the corner |
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I've then added more swirls in the middle with a row of darker
dabs
VERY IMPORTANT: Resist the urge to *over paint* In this kind of
painting less is usually better than more. It is OK if the fabric
shows through in some places - in fact it should
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| IMPORTANT: Have
fun with this!!! There is no right or wrong way to do this. Remember
that you are going to use this for embroidery. If there's a spot you
really don't like, put a butterfly on it :) |
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Once you are finished, you need to hang the painting to dry. I
like to pin it to a wire coat hanger and hang it in my shower. You
need to let it dry for a full 24 hours.
I think I might use this one as a background to the cape daisies
in the Oriental flowers collection
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Heat Setting
After the painting has dried for 24 hours, it needs heat to permanently
set the paint. There are two methods: ironing the fabric for a good
10 minutes or throw it in a hot dryer for 20 minutes. I prefer the
dryer method :) Once you have done this, the paint will NOT come
off and you can even wash the fabric in the washing machine.
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Example Two
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| These next two paintings
use only the three stokes as above, just used a little differently.
Here I'm actually creating something to resemble a background for
a scene. I used the same palette as above, just added some light green
and dark green |
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| First I use some
half circles strokes to create the lower section (might be hills,
foliage, ?? - not sure yet) |
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I add more half circles and some long strokes, then create a tree
using the dabs. For the tree, I started at the bottom with more
of the darker green on my brush and made a row of dabs. I then made
a shorter row above that one. As I went up the tree, I added more
light green to my brush and continued until I reached the top row
with only one dab.
To add some highlight, I added yellow to my brush and put a row
of short quick dabs along the left hand side of my *tree* I made
another tree in the background. Those half circles and strokes are
starting to look more like rolling hills :)
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To add the look of some foliage at the lower right corner, I loaded
my brush mostly with the dark green and dabbed across the bottom
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| To add some *ground*
looking sections I mixed some of the dark green and orange that I
still had on my palette from the first painting and used some strokes
and half circles to create a path, another hill? The beauty of this
kind of painting is that it doesn't have to be realistic - you are
giving the *hint* of something, not actually painting a picture of
a particular thing |
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To finish off the top, I mixed a lot of white, light green and
yellow and made long strokes across the top left side. I left the
middle section without paint. This was done on a piece of pale green
taffeta
This would look great with some animals or a couple of fairies
embroidered on it
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| Well, I've done
two paintings and I still have a palette full of paint. Hating to
throw anything away, below is an easy way to use up the remainder
of your paint. This is done completely using dabs and starting in
the middle and working outward. |
Example Three
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Belle Sirena might look good in the middle of this one |
| I would like to
put pictures of your work here for everyone to see. Please email pics
to suz@bfc-creations.com |
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